Layering Skincare Like a Pro!

This week we get into the actual order in which to apply our skincare. As a general rule, one can go about it in two simple ways. Either go in order from highly water based products to thicker more oil based products, OR apply the products that are most important to you in terms of actives and absorption first. It’s that simple.

I have put this routine together so anyone, no matter what skin concern, can use it with ease. Just skip the steps that don’t apply to you and go down the list.

Morning Routine:

1. Cyspera - if you use this, it goes on first, for 15 min before you wash your face. If you apply cyspera after you wash your face, wait 1 hr after washing your face before applying cyspera.

2. Cleanser - use a lower pH face wash like AHA or BHA wash to lower ph if you wish to enhance ascorbic acid absorption. Remember benzoyl peroxide produces free radicals and will use up your antioxidants if you apply them right away after washing. 

2a. Exfoliate: Mechanical exfoliation. Be careful not to over irritate the skin 1-5x per week.  Stop if you notice acne, redness or dryness. 

2b. Exfoliate: Chemical exfoliation: toner pads (AHA/BHA) or AHA (glycolic, lactic, mandelic) toners used with cotton rounds.

3. Essences.

Let skin dry.

4. If your goal is penetration of actives, you could apply prescription medication first, (unless otherwise specified by your doctor about order of application and mixing with other products).

5. Antioxidant Serums: L ascorbic acid first. Vitamin C esters are stable so they don’t need to be applied first. Some examples of good serums: Skinbetter Science Alto (superoxide dismutase, licorice root, polyphenol superfood extracts: turmeric, green tea, cocoa, grape seed, mediterranean olive. Soothing blend - calms, anti-redness). DRMTLGY Hydra-fader (kojic acid, ceramides and peptides). Skinbetter Science Even tone (hexyl resorcinol - antioxidant that brightens. Alpha arbutin, kakadu plum extract contains vitamin C).

Look for serums that combine brightening ingredients like vitamin C, kojic acid, licorice root, etc. Remember to layer, not mix.

6. Acids: Azelaic acid - avoid eye area and mouth. Wait 1 min to try. It’s great for pigmentation, inflammation and acne. Azelaic acid can be applied anywhere in your routine after vitamin C. 10% or less is over the counter. 15% is prescription, also known as Finacea. Good azelaic acid products include the Inkey List, Naturium, Paula’s choice, to name a few. Don’t overlay too many acids to avoid irritation. Lactic acid is brightening and hydrating. ZO Exfoliation Accelerator is a great 10% glycolic acid product.

7. Peptides and growth factors

8. Retinol/hydroquinone (if not applied in step #4).

9. Hydrator

10. Sunscreen or hydrator sunscreen combo, depending whether or not an occlusive will be applied.

Evening Routine:

1.Cyspera before washing your face (if not used in am). Leave on 15 min. Or, apply cyspera 1 hr after washing your face.

2. Remove makeup/sunscreen. Double cleanse! If you don’t like an oil based wash, you can use a mechanical brush or small face towel, or opt for micellar water, (Bioderma is the best in my opinion), but get that face CLEAN!

2a. Exfoliate, if you didn’t exfoliate in the morning. 

3. Essences

Let skin dry.

4. Again, just like in the am, you could apply prescription medication first, (unless otherwise specified by your doctor).

5. Antioxidant Serums

6. Acids

7. Peptides, growth factors

8. Tretinoin/Retinol/hydroquinone (this can also go in step #4 - prescription medication). You can also apply a hydrator before tretinoin to minimize irritation, or you can use the “sandwich method” of applying a hydrator before and after tretinoin.

9. Occlusive

10. Wait some time before you squish your face into your pillow so the skincare will absorb into your skin and not your pillow!

I hope this helps! Sweet dreams….